The Big Return-To-Firenze Food Update.
So after my 10 nights in the farm were up, I packed my backpack and headed out early for Firenze. It was a beautiful day, so it was kind of a bummer I didn't get to spent the nicest part of it outside, but on the bright side, I saw lots of beautiful green on my million (4) hour train ride.
Why this part of the trip was a big deal: 'cause I studied there exactly a year ago...and I've been pining ever since.
The moment I got to Santa Maria Novella train station, I felt like I had never left. Sans map, I walked straight to my friends' flat (Hannah and Ashley, some of my closest friends from uni)...which was on the same street I used to take Italian classes. Weird. I spent the rest of the day roaming and reminiscing.
On the train to Firenze, I made sure to make a list of things to
Okay, so it's not really aperitivo. Art Bar has these amazing fruit cocktails for 5 euro (before..9pm?) and unlimited chips/olives. My. Dream. I went there on the second to last night I studied in Firenze, and then I beat myself up afterwards for not going earlier. They overload the drinks with fruit chunks, too. Amazing. This time around I had a mixed berry mojito, but last year's banana daquiri was great too. The atmosphere is so cozy and dimly lit - so perfect for a catch-up chat with friends.
Weird thing to miss, right? The States don't have this flavor. Italy is all about it. Sure, I could crush up some hazelnuts, plop them in some vanilla yogurt, refrigerate overnight and pig out the next morning, but it wouldn't be the same. müller's nocciola is so outrageously creamy and not overly nutty. IT'S A PERFECT BALANCE. UGH.
Literally the only espresso of which I've ever actually enjoyed every sip. Sieni, one of the oldest cafés in Firenze, uses Illy...which is delicious, but the guy who pulls the shot makes it even better. He's all smiles and...well, I've had Illy espresso at other places before and they definitely did NOT taste as naturally sweet as this guy's. I could probably have five. The lady behind the pastry counter was scary-looking and snappy as usual, but I guess that's part of the experience.
The. Best. Sandwich. Ever. (4.50 euro) (yes, I am eating it on the Arno River).
This grilled sandwich was so good, it confused my brain the first time I had it. It was around the corner from where I used to take marble sculpting class (no joke), so obviously I went there for lunch every Tuesday. The guy serving you is this older Italian man with a very large upper body. Seriously, his arms are enormous. He's got "leonardo" tattooed in this average gothic font on his inner arm and a giant symbol of Firenze on his bicep. Go ahead and judge, but I don't because of his sublime panini. The place is located in what is basically a hole-in-the-wall-of-a-crack-alley...again, I don't judge. Pictured is "my usual" - #20 (brie, artichokes in extra extra virgin olive oil, veal), but instead of the meat I get sundried tomatoes, eggplant (again, in extra extra virgin olive oil) and spinach. Careful, you're drooling on your keyboard.
It's hard to make people understand how serious you are when you say something is the "best" you've had in your life. Which is why this time I brought Ashley to inhale some gelato with me. What's a trip to Italy without un copetto of their famed cold treat? The deal with Vivoli (shortened version) is that someone sent the place a postcard with the address "Vivoli" and it got there. No joke. It's up in the restaurant. They make their flavors daily, and it's momentously delicious. I've tried a bunch of flavors (obviously), but my favorites are hazelnut, banana (with real banana chunks; it doesn't taste like artificial flavoring..because it's not.), and extra dark chocolate. Here, I indulged in all three (in front of La Basilica di Santa Croce). Don't judge.
(something delicious for dinner)
I met up with Tori again (with Ashley) and she took us to this famous pizza place, Il Pizzaiuolo, that's big with the locals. She told us of tales where she tackled a giant fried-stuff+cheese appetizer plate...so of course we ordered that. Fried risotto balls, pizza pieces and corn mush all served around a HUGE burrata (mozzarella filled with cream). It. Was. Amazing. I do not exaggerate when I state that I barely had enough room for my pizza (tomato, mozzarella, olives, eggplant and artichoke). I had a bite of Tori's seafood pasta (should've gotten that one!)...and then I felt sickly full. Thank you Tori, for taking the leftovers.
I finally got around to going to the famous chocolate bar! Like Art Bar, the atmosphere was cozy. Too bad the drinks were kind of expensive, or else it would've been a great place to do work. I had a shaken coffee with dark chocolate...or something...like that...honestly, it was more visually appealing than it was tasty. My friend Lili got the best one...it was hot chocolate (molten chocolate) with chili. The sweet and the pepper balanced really well.
One of my last Italian indulgences....pear yogurt. Again, I haven't seen this flavor outside of Italy, which is a huge shame. The world seriously sucks. Sapori di Vipiteno is slightly more expensive than müller, but it's totally worth it. It's not as creamy, but the yogurt does a really good job of not being overpoweringly peary or sweet. They also make other wonderful tastes like plum, peach + apple, and raspberry + rhubarb.
Oh, Italia. x
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