spring break food part 3: italy (firenze).

And now, the moment you've all been waiting for.

The Big Return-To-Firenze Food Update.

So after my 10 nights in the farm were up, I packed my backpack and headed out early for Firenze. It was a beautiful day, so it was kind of a bummer I didn't get to spent the nicest part of it outside, but on the bright side, I saw lots of beautiful green on my million (4) hour train ride.

Why this part of the trip was a big deal: 'cause I studied there exactly a year ago...and I've been pining ever since.

The moment I got to Santa Maria Novella train station, I felt like I had never left. Sans map, I walked straight to my friends' flat (Hannah and Ashley, some of my closest friends from uni)...which was on the same street I used to take Italian classes. Weird. I spent the rest of the day roaming and reminiscing.

On the train to Firenze, I made sure to make a list of things to do eat. Sadly, I'm not kidding.

uno. aperitivo a Art Bar.

Okay, so it's not really aperitivo. Art Bar has these amazing fruit cocktails for 5 euro (before..9pm?) and unlimited chips/olives. My. Dream. I went there on the second to last night I studied in Firenze, and then I beat myself up afterwards for not going earlier. They overload the drinks with fruit chunks, too. Amazing. This time around I had a mixed berry mojito, but last year's banana daquiri was great too. The atmosphere is so cozy and dimly lit - so perfect for a catch-up chat with friends.

due. nocciola yogurt.

Weird thing to miss, right? The States don't have this flavor. Italy is all about it. Sure, I could crush up some hazelnuts, plop them in some vanilla yogurt, refrigerate overnight and pig out the next morning, but it wouldn't be the same. müller's nocciola is so outrageously creamy and not overly nutty. IT'S A PERFECT BALANCE. UGH.

tre. un café a Sieni.

Literally the only espresso of which I've ever actually enjoyed every sip. Sieni, one of the oldest cafés in Firenze, uses Illy...which is delicious, but the guy who pulls the shot makes it even better. He's all smiles and...well, I've had Illy espresso at other places before and they definitely did NOT taste as naturally sweet as this guy's. I could probably have five. The lady behind the pastry counter was scary-looking and snappy as usual, but I guess that's part of the experience.

quattro. un panino a Antico Noë.

The. Best. Sandwich. Ever. (4.50 euro) (yes, I am eating it on the Arno River).
This grilled sandwich was so good, it confused my brain the first time I had it. It was around the corner from where I used to take marble sculpting class (no joke), so obviously I went there for lunch every Tuesday. The guy serving you is this older Italian man with a very large upper body. Seriously, his arms are enormous. He's got "leonardo" tattooed in this average gothic font on his inner arm and a giant symbol of Firenze on his bicep. Go ahead and judge, but I don't because of his sublime panini. The place is located in what is basically a hole-in-the-wall-of-a-crack-alley...again, I don't judge. Pictured is "my usual" - #20 (brie, artichokes in extra extra virgin olive oil, veal), but instead of the meat I get sundried tomatoes, eggplant (again, in extra extra virgin olive oil) and spinach. Careful, you're drooling on your keyboard.

quattro. un gelato a Vivoli.

It's hard to make people understand how serious you are when you say something is the "best" you've had in your life. Which is why this time I brought Ashley to inhale some gelato with me. What's a trip to Italy without un copetto of their famed cold treat? The deal with Vivoli (shortened version) is that someone sent the place a postcard with the address "Vivoli" and it got there. No joke. It's up in the restaurant. They make their flavors daily, and it's momentously delicious. I've tried a bunch of flavors (obviously), but my favorites are hazelnut, banana (with real banana chunks; it doesn't taste like artificial flavoring..because it's not.), and extra dark chocolate. Here, I indulged in all three (in front of La Basilica di Santa Croce). Don't judge.

cinque. qualcosa delizioso per la cena.


(something delicious for dinner)
I met up with Tori again (with Ashley) and she took us to this famous pizza place, Il Pizzaiuolo, that's big with the locals. She told us of tales where she tackled a giant fried-stuff+cheese appetizer plate...so of course we ordered that. Fried risotto balls, pizza pieces and corn mush all served around a HUGE burrata (mozzarella filled with cream). It. Was. Amazing. I do not exaggerate when I state that I barely had enough room for my pizza (tomato, mozzarella, olives, eggplant and artichoke). I had a bite of Tori's seafood pasta (should've gotten that one!)...and then I felt sickly full. Thank you Tori, for taking the leftovers.

sei. Hemingways.

I finally got around to going to the famous chocolate bar! Like Art Bar, the atmosphere was cozy. Too bad the drinks were kind of expensive, or else it would've been a great place to do work. I had a shaken coffee with dark chocolate...or something...like that...honestly, it was more visually appealing than it was tasty. My friend Lili got the best one...it was hot chocolate (molten chocolate) with chili. The sweet and the pepper balanced really well.

sette. pera yogurt.

One of my last Italian indulgences....pear yogurt. Again, I haven't seen this flavor outside of Italy, which is a huge shame. The world seriously sucks. Sapori di Vipiteno is slightly more expensive than müller, but it's totally worth it. It's not as creamy, but the yogurt does a really good job of not being overpoweringly peary or sweet. They also make other wonderful tastes like plum, peach + apple, and raspberry + rhubarb.


Oh, Italia. x

spring break food part 1: paris.

I just came back from a three week easter break (SO LONG!). As I uploaded my photos onto my computer, I realized that most of them were of food...I think this food obsession is getting serious.

I started my break with two nights in Paris, France. I stayed with my dear friend Anna. She is spending the semester there, attending various schools (so I understand?) and living by herself in a cute little apartment in the eleventh arrondisement. I wish I had taken photos of it, but obviously I was a bit more focused on food.

After I dropped her off at school the next morning, I went off to explore the Marais (third) district with an almond croissant in hand (that was WAY too sweet!). Last time I was in Paris, I ran around doing all the very touristy things, so this time around I felt less pressured to do that. I'm really glad I explored the Marais, because I hadn't before, and one full day was perfect for it! My morning started with an espresso and map reading. I still don't think I enjoy Lavazza espresso. It's a bit too bitter for me.



I met up with Anna and we decided to track down some lunch. Walking through the Marais, we decided to hit up this falafel place that had a huge line with lots of Japanese people. We Japanese do hardcore research before going anywhere, so I knew it would be fabulous. Oh, and it was. Best falafel of my LIFE. There was a perfect balance of creamy, spicy, sweet, and crunchy. AND there was no funky aftertaste, which is a HUGE plus.



Although the falafel had no terrible aftertaste, we had to get some dessert. Neither of us had ever eaten at Ladurée, so we decided to splurge and get ourselves one of those famous double-decker macarons.



We thought the price was a bit outrageous, but once we took a bite we realized why...they were perfect! I got the vanilla and Anna got violet. I could totally taste the vanilla (and not just that crappy vanilla flavoring, but the real stuff) and the consistency of the meringuey top with the marzipany middle together was the perfect soft crunch.

The next day Anna took me to a quaint vegan café.



Anna got the pumpkin one, with what I think were azuki beans on the bottom. I got the slice of satsuma potatoes with carrot shavings on top. Both were in a (kind of dry...) whole wheat crust. The fillings were perfect though! I might have thrown on a bit of sesame salt, but I love salt, so I think otherwise it would have been fine.

And of course, dessert follows lunch! So we bought a slice of apple pie-ish thing. I was expecting something sweet (I feel like all apple pies are overly sweet), but this one was just right! And that's coming from someone who was kind of sick at the time. I think we agreed that a little dash of cinnamon or nutmeg on top would've given it a little extra something, but what we got was pretty damn good. I think there was a layer of oats below the apple. I just wished the crust weren't the same as the other savory slices we got earlier.



All of that with unlimited anise tea (which, surprisingly, I enjoyed). x